BETTIAH, INDIA--A jeep travelling through this small town in rural Bihar affords the usual sights. There is the traffic chaos of donkey carts, cycle rickshaw-wallahs, motorbikes carrying six-person families. There are the wandering cattle and pigs, the cacophony of urban Indian life. As the town chaos thins out, there are other things to see: haystacks, sugar cane fields, bright pink saris. And then, along the roadside, one pile of brown material after the other, in a shameful line. This is where the people of this part of town come every morning to defecate, because they have no toilet, or because they prefer to squat on their haunches in the open.
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